Saturday, January 19, 2013

21. Parasols and P.R.


Parasol by Becky Brown

Patty's Summer Parasol, a play on the Double Wedding Ring pattern, was published in the Kansas City Star in 1953. We can use the pieced and appliqued design to recall how American women used parasols as an emblem of their cause.



When sunshades were summer necessities, a symbol of women's delicacy, they also became a visual image in women's determination to obtain the vote.


A parasol could serve as billboard, here advertising suffrage teas---another adaptation of a traditional female institution into powerful public relations.



The message at its simplest was "Votes for Women."



 
During the 1916 Democratic convention in St. Louis where Woodrow Wilson was nominated for a second term, a "Golden Lane" of women wearing yellow sashes and carrying parasols lined the streets, a "walkless, talkless" protest reminding delegates every day of activists' persistence.

The Golden Lane

Three years later when the Missouri Legislature voted on ratification, women in the galleries applauded and waved yellow parasols after each legislator voted in favor of the 19th amendment. "As the certainty of the successful outcome of the roll-call was more apparent, the volume of cheering and the medley of the waving yellow sun-shades increased." The Southeast Missourian, July 15, 1919

Portland, Oregon, 1912
The Parasol by Becky Brown

Cutting an 8" Finished Block

The parasol pattern is BlockBase #951.


Parasol by Dustin Cecil
The 8" pattern.
See the 3 pages for the 12" pattern below.

 I re-numbered the ruffle pieces along the edge as three pieces. Cut 1 E, 1 F and 6 D
The Kansas City Star pattern had you piece the curved umbrella into the background but here you applique the umbrella to an 8-1/2" square and ignore pieces A and B, as Dustin and Becky did. 

Here's how Becky pieced the parasol over the paper pattern.
First she cut fabric with the seam allowances included.
She cut paper templates ignoring the seam allowances, folded the fabric edges over each
and glued the seam allowances down with a glue stick.
The pins tell her what's top and bottom of each piece.




She then whip-stitched the ruffle to the umbrella and removed the paper.

After you have pieced the ruffle to piece C you can applique it with the handle and top knot.



  
 The parasols seem to be advertising a march in
Washington, May, 1913 "Rain or Shine."

Read about using public relations and consumer goods for the cause in Margaret Mary Finnegan's Selling Suffrage: Consumer Culture & Votes for Women (Columbia University Press 1999.) See a preview here:



Here's a mid-20th-century pieced and appliqued parasol---
a different pattern, but just as cute.
Inspiration, perhaps.

Learn more about the Missouri parasol brigades in the "Fighting for Rights Set" photos from the Missouri History Museum here




Mary Ellen appliqued hers.

Saturday, January 12, 2013

20. Memory Wreath: Emily Wilding Davidson

Memory Wreath
By Becky Brown

Mary Richardson of the Women's Social &
Political Union slashed a Velasquez 
nude in the National Gallery in 1914.


The year 1913 saw increasing militancy among women demanding the vote, particularly in England. WSPU members had been using civil disobedience to focus attention on their demands. Using tactics learned from the anarchist movement, members began to focus on "The Deed," acts of terrorism .

Houses of opposing politicians were torched.




The most shocking event was the death of Emily Davison who stepped out onto England's Epsom Downs track in front of the King's horse in the middle of the Derby, the June social event. The horse tossed her into the air and she died of her injuries a few days later. Jockey 22-year-old Herbert Jones was knocked to the ground but he and the horse suffered no significant physical injuries.


Was Emily's dramatic act an accident, a suicide or a protest gone awry?  She was a well-known militant in the WSPU. She'd been to jail several times, tried suicide before and had been accelerating her own rebellion by setting fires and throwing stones at government officials.


Emily Davison at 40, a month before she died
 
WSPU leader Sylvia Pankhurst wrote in her memoir that Emily and her roommate had planned "a Derby protest without tragedy - a mere waving of the purple-white-and-green at Tattenham Corner, which, by its suddenness, it was hoped would stop the race. Whether from the first her purpose was more serious, or whether a final impulse altered her resolve, I know not." Emily's  funeral befitted a martyr with 6,000 mourners walking through London's streets.



Emily Davison on the right with WSPU leaders
Emmeline Pethick-Lawrence at left and sisters
Christabel and Sylvia Pankhurst

The King's jockey Herbert Jones said he was haunted by the memory of her face. When WSPU leader Emmeline Pankhurst died after the cause had been won, he left a wreath with the message, "To do honour to the memory of Mrs Pankhurst and Miss Emily Davison." He committed suicide in 1951.

Memory Wreath by Georgann Eglinski


Try using BlockBase #2039
and add lines to make triangles in the corners in EQ...
or see BlockBase #2392 with the block on point.


Memory Wreath is a pattern from Ruth Finley's 1929 book Old Patchwork Quilts. She described it as a mourning block often made from the clothing of the departed. It's a variation of BlockBase #2039 also called King's Crown by the Kansas City Star.


Cutting an 8" Finished Block
A - Cut 8 squares  2-7/8".
Cut each in half diagonally to make 2 triangles. You need 16 triangles.
B - Cut 1 square 5-1/4" (5-3/16" if you want to use the 1/16th inch default.)

 Cut with 2 diagonal cuts to make 4 triangles. You need 4 triangles.

C - Cut 1 square 4-1/2"

Memory Wreath by Becky Brown

12" Pattern


A century ago movie cameras recorded Emily Davison's martyrdom and her funeral. Click to see one version of the Derby catastrophe:
And here is her funeral procession:
http://youtu.be/Tbjzs8v6qsg 

Decades later the BBC interviewed an eye witness to the act:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/archive/suffragettes/8317.shtml


Tea House at Kew Gardens after arson by militant suffragettes.
Library of Congress

Read more about this image at a Library of Congress site:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/library_of_congress/2765476716/

Saturday, January 5, 2013

19. Old Maid's Ramble: Desperate Walkers


Old Maid's Ramble
By Becky Brown

The country in Hampshire, England

One of Jane Austen's delights was walking across the countryside from village to village. A few days after her 23rd birthday in 1798 she wrote her sister Cassandra:
"I enjoyed the hard black frosts of last week very much, and one day while they lasted walked [from Steventon] to Deane by myself. I do not know that I ever did such a thing in my life before."

 Less than two years later the hike of a few miles was commonplace for Jane.
"On Thursday we walked to Deane, yesterday to Oakley Hall and Oakley, and to-day to Deane again. At Oakley Hall we did a great deal—eat some sandwiches all over mustard... ."

A month later at her friend Martha Lloyd's house, the weather kept them inside.
 "It is too dirty even for such desperate walkers as Martha and I to get out of doors, and we are therefore confined to each other's society from morning till night..."
Desperate walkers Jane and Martha were perhaps considered eccentric. Ladies did not hike. About one hundred years later walking was still ill-advised. In 1896 health expert John Madison Taylor warned against it. Girls should "take mild open-air exercise (of which walking solemnly along the street is emphatically not the best and not even a good form)."

Advice such as Taylor's was still in vogue when I was a teenager in the 1960s. Exercise of any kind seemed unwise (female troubles, you know) and unladylike (boys hated competition).

 


According to Taylor: 
"The so-called calisthenic exercises, which mean 'beautiful forcefulness,' probably because they are usually so hideous, are devoid of interest and not particularly useful. Only that exercise is best which involves some pleased acquiescence.... Fancy dancing, as previously remarked, admirably develops loins and back....The bicycle is monotonous, and the character of movements is restricted by the rotary mechanism, hence it develops unsymmetrically and may exhaust before tiring the muscles. Cycling is a peril because of the competition of companions who lure the weak ones too far. Girls should not push up steep hills and never attempt to keep pace with powerful young men."

1911---A Kansas sports team from the Library of Congress
 
I'm sure Taylor recommended housework too. I'm jealous of American girls who went to high school after Title IX was enacted in 1972. Within a few years girls' participation in team sports went up from 4% to 25%. At last summer's Olympics, women won 56% of Team USA's medals.


"[Brother Henry] talks of the Rambles we took last summer with pleasing affection." Jane Austen, April 11, 1805

Old Maid's Ramble
By Becky Brown
She threw in more fabrics in this version:
"I always think more fabrics are better!"

Celebrate a good hike with Jane, Martha and Old Maid's Ramble. The pattern was given the unfortunate name about 1890 by the Ladies Art Company.
It makes a great two-color block

It's BlockBase #2328a.
Oops! Ginny says #2338a and she's right, but I
can't get it to find the number. Search as a wild card
for Ramble and you'll see it.
 
Cutting an 8" Finished Block
The red measurements come from the EQ rotary cutting default set to 1/16th inch rather than 1/8".
 
A - Cut 12 squares 3-1/4". Cut with 2 diagonal cuts to make 4 triangles.
You need 48 triangles.
B- Cut 1 square 5-1/4". Cut with 2 diagonal cuts to make 4 triangles.
You need 4 triangles.

Here's a how-to for a two-color version. Throw in more fabrics and refigure the shading.



Cutting a 12" Block
A - Cut 12 squares 4-3/16". Cut with 2 diagonal cuts to make 4 triangles.

You need 48 triangles.



B- Cut 1 square 7-3/16". Cut with 2 diagonal cuts to make 4 triangles.

You need 4 triangles.


  
Read about the benefits of Title IX mandating girls' sports here:
Remember early concepts of exercise in John Madison Taylor & William Hughes Wells , Manual of the diseases of children. Search for the words feebleness or puberty.
And read Jane Austen's letters in a Project Gutenberg e-book here: